A Matt V. Watch Review |
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Watch Review By: Matt V. <mattv@mailcity.com>
WATCH REVIEW COMMENTS 25 Jewel ETA 2824-2 automatic with date function, 42 hours power reserve, 28800 bph and produced since 1972; a classic. In the Tridente supposedly decorated (see photo below), but I haven't opened it up yet and can only hope it is not the basic (cheap) version. This movement is the workhorse in a number of watches at all price levels, however there are always those who believe such a movement isn't worthy of a watch that sells at over $500. Well, I was looking at Tudor Submariners that sell for quite a bit more and they also use this ETA movement, guess I can't be that wrong than. Anyhow, the 2824 has a reputation for reliability and robustness, its popularity virtually ensures that parts shouldn't be a problem and any watchmaker can service/adjust it without a problem.
Case, Crystal and Crown The 44mm diameter case (48mm with crown) is a bit larger than the original Sub (or the less expensive versions by Invicta, Sandoz, O&W etc.) and looks great on a larger wrist. With 14mm height, the watch is large and has presence without looking flashy. The stainless steel is beautifully polished on the sides and back, brushed on top. All corners and edges are smooth and rounded however I might have preferred the edges on the lugs a little more crisp (more like on the Invicta). A crew back is decorated with the Tridente symbol and so is the huge (over 7mm diameter) and great looking screw down crown. The crown is easy to grip and operate at that size, however extends a little over the crown guards which I hope is still safe. Saphire crystal with AR coating on the outside and a magnifying lens over the date. If I could change anything, I would add AR coating to the inside (I got reflections on the shiny dial in artificial light) and maybe even move the "cyclops" to the inside to avoid it getting caught or damaged. The screw down crown/stem looks different to what I have seen before and feels very solid. A water resistance of 500m confirms that this should be a very rugged watch.
Bezel Uni-Directional Divers Bezel, adjusted in 60 positions, in steel with black inlay and luminous dot in the "0" triangle. Looks nice, is not as difficult to turn as on the Rolex Sub but not as easy to turn as on the Sandoz. Lines up nicely and has a quality "feel" to it, however might be rather difficult to grip with gloves or under water.
Dial and Hands Cheap dials that are blatantly trying to imitate Rolex but don't quite achieve that quality are my biggest pet peave with Invicta and Sandoz Sub's. The Tridente, while going for the Submariner style, takes a different route. A shiny black dial with applied, uniquely shaped markers and a printed, outer 60 seconds track looks refreshingly different. The "Marcello C" name is printed in white/silver on the top half, "Tridente" and "Automatic" on the bottom half and the "500m/1650ft" water resistance designation is printed in red. "Swiss made" on the bottom confirms its origin. Markers and hands have Superluminova applied and work well throughout the night, even though the ralatively small surface doesn't get it to glow like a christmas tree. Hands are the classic silver mercedes style and well aligned (don't you just hate it if they don't properly line up?).
Accuracy Gains about 10 seconds per day (haven't had a chance to put it on the Vibrograf yet). That seems to be standard with all new watches I get that have the ETA 2824-2 movement. In my experience, that should slow down to about +3 seconds/24 hours within the next few months, so I won't bother timing it until it had its run-in period.
Strap, Buckle or Bracelet While most of the time I prefer straps on my watches, I am a sucker for a nice, thick and hefty bracelet that matches the style of a watch. If it is comfortable to wear and looks good, even better. So far I found e.g. the Invicta bracelet to be a great value and once the shiny middle links were brushed, the looks were good too. Breitling bracelets in my opinion define the upper class (their Pilot bracelets are a dream) however they do come with a hefty pricetag as well. In the case of the Tridente, the impressive 22mm wide bracelet alone is worth buying the watch. Thick (4mm) solid links using screws (not cheap pushpins), very flexible and comfortable, highly polished on the sides and neatly brushed on top. This bracelet would be worthy of a Breitling! The double foldover deployant clasp is also solid and doesn't come loose by itself however you need to use the opposite side of the clasp as a lever to open it if you don't want to risk your fingertips. Nice quality touch: the Marcello C name is engraved on the foldover clasp, not just etched. Two thumbs up for the bracelet and clasp!
User Manual and Packaging OK, I admit it: nice and expensive packagaging does impress me and reinstated my impression of value of a watch. After all, no cheap watch comes in expensive packaging. And yes, I do know that I ultimately pay for the presentation and packaging even though most of the time it just sits around and collects dust, doing nothing for me (or the watch). Marcello C. came up with a smart idea: the watch comes in a good looking zippered black leather pouch that can be used as a padded travel case for up to two watches which are safely held in place inside. Excellent idea and in this case I might actually use the packaging! Two thumbs up for the packaging.
Comfort A heavy watch and heavy, solid bracelet. Due to the shape of the case it sits low on the wrist. The bracelet can be adjusted in 4 positions at the clasp, individual links can be removed for sizing (screws, not pushpins!) and a divers extension takes care of quick adjustments. After getting used to the size and weight it is comfortable to wear and the height doesn't present any problem with shirtcuffs etc. due to the rounded off bezel.
Value The European List Price for this watch is 660 Euro incl. VAT. So far I haven't been able to find it being sold anywhere on the Internet for less and thus I ended up paying list minus VAT. This List price puts it in the same category of mid-level watches as for example an Oris BC3 ($685 List) with the same ETA automatic movement. However, the Oris can nowadays be had for around $400. If I compare the Marcello C to the Oris, the Tridente strikes me as being in a whole other League. There are lots of small details that make a difference, for example an etched Oris name on the foldover clasp versus an engraved name on the foldover clasp of the Tridente. To me the watch is more comparable with e.g. the Omega Seamaster. The heft, choice and quality of materials and quality of manufacturing are that of a watch costing at least $1,000. So in my opinion, the Tridente is a horological bargain just like some of the "Sinn" watches are and I can only recommend it to anyone looking for a quality Divers style watch with classic Submariner looks. A great find and I sincerely hope we're going to see some more gems from this company.
Copyright © 2002-2004 Matt van Doorn, All Rights Reserved | |||||||||||||||||||||
